I visited Luang Prabang in July 2019 and I have been mesmerized by this small town situated the midst of lush jungles and along the Mekong river. Since I live in Bangkok, I have the goal to visit as much as I could UNESCO World Heritage Site in Asia and Luang Prabang or Louangphrabang was on this bucket list for many years.
Unfortunately, I have kept pushing back this trip. Each time, we were planning to visit the ancient capital of the Lao Kingdom with some girlfriends, we had to postpone but this time I have made my mind to do another solo trip.
Due to a change of my Visa situation in Thailand, I had to leave the country the next day. While I was looking for the cheapest flight on Skyscanner, as if the Gods were with me this time, the flight ticket for Luang Prabang was a real deal compare to the usual price. It was at only 4,000 Baht. So, without an hesitation, I grabbed my credit card and booked my flight with AirAsia to leave the very next day to Luang Prabang.
I was super excited about this trip and my expectations were super high as I have been hearing from friends how much they love the place…and the food soooo yummy. I started packing my things quickly before to head to join some friends to Cactus, one of our favorite bar which is also owned by a Prince from Lao but that will be another story :-),
On my hast, I have forgotten my camera which was a bit of a shame to capture the beauty of the glittery temples…anyway I have managed to take some nice shots with my phone but still it would have been better with the camera.
Luang Prabang in brief
The ancient city and capital of Lane Xang Kingdom during the 13th to 16th centuries situated in the North of Lao, is listed since 1995 as UNESCO World Heritage Center. Luang Prabang offers an exceptional example of the fusion between traditional architecture and culture with its exquisite Buddhist temples (34 temples in the heart of the ancient city) and the French colonial buildings heritage of the colonialism between the 19th and 20th Centuries.
Another highlight of Luang Prabang, apart the food and arts, is the abundant and lure nature surrounding the sleepy town with wonderful waterfalls, tropical jungles and the slow flow of the Mekong river bringing life to this region.
Eat in Luang Prabang
Lao people spend a lot of time eating, this is a big part of their life and culture. Leaving in Bangkok for now almost five years, it is something I am accustomed of as this is a conductor wire between all Asian countries.
Laotian share the same love about their cuisine as Thai people do. Laotian cuisine is full of color and taste. If you are new to this type of cuisine your taste buds will be on roller coaster. Laotian cuisine is very similar to Northeast Thailand. Here, we eat steam sticky rice with each meal, eaten by hand and dipped into spicy sauce. Sticky rice represents the essence of to be Lao expressing the glue that holds the Lao community wherever they are. Often Laotian refer themselves as children or descendants of sticky rice ” luk khao niaow”.
The most famous Lao dish is laab or larb, a spicy salad blended with spices, fresh herbs, raw or cooked meat or fish and topped with toasted rice powder giving its exceptional taste to this dish. Another famous dish is the papaya salad Tam Mak Hoong (people knows usually the Thai name Som Tam). If you have a chance to come to Luang Prabang do not miss to try the Lao sausage, the Khao Soi, the smokey eggplant dip and the Mekong seaweed. To take back home, I would highly suggested you to buy some fresh coffee beans for you and to offer to your friends and relatives a very reasonable price for the quality. You can find the best coffee grown organically in town at Saffron cafe. Learn more about Saffron Cafe
Below you will find more information about food and restaurants in Luang Prabang that I have tasted.
Food specialty
Khao Soy
For my morning breakfast I have tried the famous Khao Soi, a delicious filling noodle soup, yet different than its Northern Thai cousin which is a creamy coconut based curry noodle soup, but still super yummy. The Lao version of the thick, rich and hearty broth is made from tomatoes, fermented soy beans and pork mince with wide rice noodle. It is simply delicious.
The minced pork has been cooked for hours above a charcoal grill with a mix of tomatoes, roasted chilies, herbs and fermented soy bean paste. This is an easy dish to find in Luang Prabang.
The one I have tried has been recommended to me by the owner of the little coffee shop Mali Coffee. It was not very far as it was just in front of Mali Coffee in the middle of the market. This little shop is serving only Khao Soi and works on the basis first come first served. So you might go early to be able to taste this delicious soup before it gets sold out. Differently to the other restaurants located in the market, this one was frequented only by local people enjoying their breakfast.
Jaew (Chilies dipping sauce)
The chilies dipping sauce or Jeaw will be found everywhere accompagning your meal. Lao people usually dip their sticky rice into it. The dipping sauce is usually made from chili peppers and roasted vegetables giving this significant smokey flavors. Fermented fish and meat can be as well added to the dip. My favorite is the Jaew Ma-Kaew (roasted eggplant dip), the flavor was delicatly smokey and will convein to anyone as it lighly spicy. This dip reminds me the flavors of the Libanese eggplant dip.
Another local favorite is the Jaew Bang a spicy dip made with dried chilies, galangal, shallots, garlic, green scallions and dried buffalo skin. Yup, you read it well: buffalo skin. Hmmm appealing isnt’it ? The dried buffalo skin is rather chewy than soft and in my opinion does not bring any interesting flavors. However, the taste of this spicy dip is going well with Laotian cuisine and bring more flavours to the sticky rice.
Talking about dried buffalo skin, I had a chance to try another type of dish at the market. This is a kind of mix vegetable and herb stew with chunks of dried buffalo skin. The mix vegetable which I believe was spinach was a bit sour and seeing so many local ladies rushing to this little stall, I am certain that it is mostly appreciated by the Laotian. It is a traditional dish but today it is getting rare as it takes too much time to cook.
Tam Mak Hoon (papaya salad)
While traveling in Lao I was using mainly my rudimentar Thai language to order food. Here in Lao they called Som Tam: Tam Mak Hoon which is the original version of the so loved Som Tam from the North-Eastern Thailand. Differently, to the Thai version the green papaya is shredded on large stripe making this version a bit more soft under the teeth than the Thai one. Here, as well you will not be able to find the lighter version with the fish sauce that we commonly named the Som Tam Thai. You will find only with a highly concentrated fermented fish sauce.
Different version of Tam can be found using different fruits. Just point to the seller which fruit you will prefer and they will start pounding the ingredients in the mortar giving the name “tam” of the dish.
Sai Oo-Ha (Lao saussage)
The Lao sausage also are cousin of the Northern style sausage that we can find in Thailand. The Lao sausage are made of different part and texture of pork meat included of pork belly, and minced pork mixed with different spicies and herbs such as galangal, chopped green onions, cilantro, dill and of course chilies for the taste. Sai Oo-Ha or Lao sausage is a must-try while traveling in Lao.
Hot pot
As everywhere else in South east Asia highly influenced by the Chinese culture, hot pot is a favorite for family and friends gathering. You will find hot pot restaurants along the Mekong river. As I was traveling alone, I did not venture for a hotpot and anyway it is not very something I am into it usually.
Local markets
Luang Prabang Morning Market
In the heart of the town next to the Royal Palace, a morning market is taken place each morning starting just before the sun rise until 9.00 am to 10.00 am. This local market is not a touristic crap as you might think. It is a real market that local people go around and buy their daily fresh products to cook. You will find everything and every type of meat…yup you hear me. Sensitive heart should stay away of some stalls. Yet, it is a great way to wander around and try some tasty food. Take your breakfast there after the alms ceremony and pack a delicious lunch for your whereabouts to the waterfall Kuang Si.
Luang Prabang Night Market
As most of travelers have strolled the night market and looking at the local handmade art crafts. I was not planing to eat at the night market but the restaurant was recommended to me was closed and I was running out of options past 9.00 pm. So I took the direction to the market and ordered a Tom Mak Hoon and a grilled fish. Food was okay but for sure not great. However, it is a good place for solo travelers to meet other travelers. While I was there drinking a beer I met seating next to me on the table a very nice guy from Thailand and we were pleased chatting while sipping on our Lao Beer and snaking some food. 
Restaurants
Dyen Sabai Restaurant
One of the most recommended restaurant is Dyen Sabai Restaurant which is only accessible by boat or crossing the river from the handmade bamboo bridge maintained by the local population. To across, you will have to pay 5,000 kit for both ways.
Dyen Sabai is the perfect spot to escape the busy street of the city center and to relax in a laid back atmosphere in the peaceful settings with bamboo huts. The restaurant boasts a spectacular view on the river and it is a popular spot to relax for sunset. Come a bit early to make sure to have a table for diner and while watching the sunset enjoy the daily promotions available until 7.00 pm with a buy 1 get 1 free on cocktails in the menu.
Personally, I prefer to drink beer as it is paired best with the local food. To sample different specialty of the country, I have opted for their appetizer platter inclusive of the famous Lao sausage (Sai Oo-Ha), dried pork with sesame, two chili dips Jaew Bong and Jaew Ma-Kaew, fried Mekong seaweed, a specialty of Luang Prabang and sticky rice. As I was alone, I had hard time to finish the platter and I was not able to order a dish. I wanted to try the steamed fish in banana leaf. But their specialty are the Laotian fondue also called Sindad which is their best sellers. You will see that most of tables have ordered the Hot Pot.
The food was delicious and definitely worth every penny.
Address Dyen Sabai : Ban Phan Louang, PO Box 805, Luang Prabang 06000, Laos – To find the location click here
Papaya Salad Restaurant
If you are traveling to Luang Prabang you cannot miss to try their delicious and healthy papaya salad (Tam Mak Hoon). During the few days I have stayed in Lao I have continuously used the Thai words for ordering my food. The Lao version which is the original from the Thai version offers a deeper taste from the fermented fish sauce, salty and spicy from the chilies. Thai Som Tam are sweeter in taste and sour from the lime juice.
Papaya Salad restaurant is located in the heart of the city , in front of a temple Wat Nong Sikhounmuang. This is a street style restaurant with a little stall of the restaurant where they prepared the Tam Mak Hoon. This is one of the favorite for locals to go. I was the only farang (Westerner) when I took a seat in one of the table. The restaurant was very busy during lunch time make sure to do not come to late before they are running out of food.
I have ordered a papaya salad with hot spicy level as I like it and to accompany with it just a grilled quarter chicken. The dipping sauce was delightful that I have to ask for a refill. The papaya salad was served generously with a great taste.
Coffee Shops
Luang Prabang is also famous for its little café and the low key vibe they do provide with high quality dessert and coffee beans. Do not miss it to try Joma for their delicious dessert and Saffron.
Joma Bakery Cafe
For anyone visiting Luang Prabang, Joma worth the visit with sumptuous dessert. I could not resist to indulge myself with a lemon pie.
Joma is a kind of little business who wants to give back to the community, 10% of the profit is going to NGO to empower the local people. The coffee they brew is sourced in Southern part of Lao from community farms. Joma is taking seriously to source highly quality products from the fair trade and organically grown from Laos or like the butter from New Zealand.
Joma Hua Xieng, Th. Chao Fa Ngum On the main road, near the Post Office
Saffron Coffee’s Espresso, Brew Bar, & Roastery
Saffron Coffee has few locations in Luang Prabang, I have visited their branch near the river. It was raining and I was a bit wet so a warm cup of coffee was most than welcome. The branch near the river is very charming in an old French style house with a greenery view.
Saffron was born in 2006 with the goal to help farmers to walk out of poverty and to give a new positive pathway after the breakdown on opium farming. Saffron partners with multiple NGO and charities to promote coffee to farming families in Northern Laos . Today they are spanning across 4 provinces, 25 villages and +800 farmers.
If you want to know more about Saffron, you can visit their website and even support their commitment by giving 1$ for 1 tree. Click here!
Saffron Coffee’s Espresso, Brew Bar, & Roastery, Luang Prabang ,Click here for the location on Google Maps
L’Etranger Books & Tea
L’Etranger Books & Tea is a coffee shop in a wooden house opened since 2001 in Luang Prabang. The Canadian owner gave the name of the book “L’Etranger” by Albert Camus. It was the first licensed library in Laos.
The multi-space L’Etranger Books & Tea is a perfect place to relax. The cafe offers an outdoor patio where you can eat some snacks or light meals and drink a tea (selection of 65 teas are available). Every evening, the cafe invites you for their movie night, check out here the movie schedule. On the second floor you will find an art gallery representing renown local artists Mankhone and P.Noy
L’Etranger Books & Tea, 3 Th Kingkitsarat ban Aphay Luang Prabang, Luang Prabang, click here for Google Maps
What to do
I have stayed 2 nights and 3 days in Luang Prabang but actually it was 48h00 stay in between the 2 flights. There are many things to do in Luang Prabang : wandering around in the little town, visiting the beautiful temples, art galleries, and as well to go hiking and swimming in the waterfalls nearby.
Day 1
I have arrived around 4 pm in the city, after checked-in in the hotel near the Royal Palace , I took a walk around.
Night market
The night market sellers were starting to install their stalls and goods to sell to the tourists visiting the town. Most of goods are locally crafted. You can find beautiful silverware, colorful China tea set, handmade blankets, wooden carving, handmade clothes…The sellers are very nice and not pushy. This is something I have appreciated. I don’t like to be hassle by sellers when I am just looking around.
I was a bit hungry so I have bought at the market few fried spring rolls and a brownie at Joma Bakery.
Along the river
After that, I walked toward the river. Was really quiet. I was expecting to find more people around the river side to watch out the sunset. Most of little shacks restaurants were closed or empty or only one table occupied. I walked till the end and found a little shacks where I stayed for a while drinking a beer while watching the river.
Day 2 Morning
On the second day I waken up early in the morning to witness the Alms Ceremony before to head to the morning market and walked up on the top of Phousi Hill.
Alms Giving Ceremony in Luang Prabang
The Morning Alms Giving Ceremony starts around 6.00 am each morning. You will find many articles on Google if you are looking for it. I just want to give you my feelings about it.
So, I felt a bit misplaced to witness this ceremony. Many tourists and mostly Asian are just standing there to take pictures of themselves offering food to the monks. It does not seem to me a tradition or something you do genuinely but just for your Instagram and other social media feeds. I am a blogger and I feel sometimes I should not take a picture or to write up about something as I want to keep it private and personal or feel it would be inappropriate. However, if you want to learn more about the Alms Ceremony, I am sharing another article and a YouTube video. I would like just to warn you and if you still want to witness, please keep your distance, keep quiet and be always respectful to other culture.
5 Things to Consider Before Observing the Alms Giving Ceremony in Luang Prabang
Phousi Hill
Do not miss to climb up Phousi Hill for a 360 breathtaking view over Luang Prabang. It is very popular for Sunset and can be overcrowded, so I went for a peaceful time early in the morning at opening time.
Phousi Hill or Phousi Mountain is a small mountain located in the center of the town. You would find the entrance near the Royal Palace.
Phou Si means “Sacred Hill” about 100 meters high, the climb to the top is a bit of exercice but very worth it. Another reason to do on early morning :-). From the top a 360 views of Luang Prabang, the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers and the lush rain-forest mountains will open to you.
On the top of the hill is That Chomsi, a golden pagoda topped with 7 tiered parasol. It was built by King Anourat in 1804. The golden stuppa is visible glittering from almost everywhere in Luang Prabang.
Opening hours : from 6 am and no fixed closing time to let people watch the sunset from the top.
Entrance fee is 20.000 kip (2.60 USD) per person.
Day 2 Afternoon
On the afternoon I went to Kuang Si Waterfall and catch up a shared minivan from 11.30 am. You will find more information on how to get there below.
Kuang Si Waterfalls
I have seen many waterfalls since I am living in Bangkok and Kuang Si will not let you down. It is one of the most gorgeous waterfall I have seen so far if it is not the MOST and MUST DO in Luang Prabang. This is the highlight of the trip!
How to get to Kuang Si Waterfalls?
Kuang Si is located about 23 km and 45 minutes away from town. There is few options to get there.
- Share a minivan
Your hotel can book for you a seat in the shared minivan. They leave twice a day at fixed time at 11.30 am and 1.30 pm and it would cost you 60,000 kit, about 7 USD. This is the option I have chosen as I was traveling alone and I had enough time to enjoy the waterfall.
- Share a songtaew
The songtaew could be found near the post office and Joma Bakery Cafe and as well along the river near the bamboo bridge taking you to the restaurant Dyen Sabai. It is the cheapest way to go to the waterfall and it would cost you about 50,000 kit, about 6 USD. However, the driver will wait until the songtaew is full (5 to 9 people) and could take some times.
If you want to go on the journey on your own it would cost you 200,000 kit (23 USD).
- Hire a private car
You can rent a private car which will cost you 250,000 kit, about 30 USD. This is a good option if you are traveling with family or in group as it would give you more freedom than the other options.
- Ride a boat
To take a boat on the Mekong to go to Kuang Si Waterfalls could be the most do experience. The Banana Boat BB01 will take about 1 hour ride down the river through the magical mountain scenery. The boat will stop along the way where you will catch up a pickup ride for few kilometers to the waterfall. Price would depend on how many people joining the tour. For one person it cost 93 USD and price goes down to 45 USD each for 3-4 persons. The boat leaves at 10 am and returns around 5 pm.
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