When Phuket comes to mind, thoughts often drift to Phuket with pristine beaches, luxurious resorts and captivating sunsets. Yet, beneath this paradisiacal facade, a gastronomic treasure awaits. Although Thailand is celebrated for its cuisine, Phuket’s culinary scene often remains overshadowed by its stunning vistas, causing many high-end dining establishments to fall short of delivering an extraordinary epicurean journey. Nonetheless, Phuket showcases a deep culinary heritage influenced by its Chinese and Malay ancestors, fused with Thai elements, and offers a bounty of delectable seafood. The essence of Southern Thai spiciness comes to life in humble shophouses and bustling street markets.
Today, we invite you to immerse yourself in the story of Samut, a dining haven in the heart of Nai Harn. With a focus on modern Thai cuisine, this restaurant transforms local seafood and indigeneous ingredients into culinary masterpieces that dance upon the palate. The name ‘Samut’, a tribute to the ocean, encapsulates the essence of the venue’s offerings – a true gem along Phuket’s shores.
Guided by the culinary virtuoso Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn, the mastermind behind Michelin Starred Le Du and Nusara, the symphony of culinary magic orchestrates. At the forefront of this enchanting composition is the skilled hand of Chef Chatchawan Varahajeerakul, a culinary maestro lovingly referred to as Chef Banky Jazz. His expertise, honed through his tenure at Michelin-starred Saawaan and Jaras at Intercontinental Phuket, breathes innovation into tradition.
Under Chef Banky’s leadership, Samut has emerged as a gastronomic lighthouse in Phuket. The restaurant draws its name from ‘mahasamut’, the Thai expression for ocean, evoking the boundless expanse of the sea and the infinite culinary treasures that Thailand’s waters offer. As you explore the menu printed on a blue paper reminiscence of the ocean, draws inspiration from the lust coastal landscapes of Thailand. Spanning from Prachuap Khiri Khan to the sun-kissed shores of Narathiwat and Yala, each dish pays homage to the region’s rich seafood heritage. Samut injects a fresh and enticing twist into Phuket’s culinary landscape, inviting both locals and globetrotters to indulge in a refined gastronomic journey.
While Samut exudes an air of sophistication, it gracefully avoids the trappings of pretentiousness often associated with upscale dining establishments. Instead, it offers an environment where culinary enthusiasts can savor the delights of Thai cuisine in an ambiance that is welcoming, relaxed, and authentically Thai. It’s where elegance meets accessibility – a culinary gem that treasures the joy of fine dining without the stiffness.
Chef Banky Jazz orchestrates an enchanting eight-course dinner, a symphony of twenty delicately curated dishes. Each course is a testament to his passion and artistry, meticulously composed with locally sourced ingredients. These dishes, designed to be enjoyed in one or two bites, are not just culinary creations – they are culinary stories that honor the rich seafood heritage of the coastal regions of Thailand.
As your palate embarks on this culinary voyage, you’ll relish the freshest catches of the day from azure waters of the Gulf of Thailand and the Andaman Sea – razor clams, Phuket lobsters, red snappers, and tiger prawns – each infused with the distinctive flavors of the South. Notably, meat has no place on this menu; instead, locally and sustainably sourced fish and seafood take the spotlight. Anticipate discoveries like gaeng som mousse crowned with a gaeng som glaze, catfish, palm heart, and pickled papaya served alongside homemade crispy roti – a contemporary spin on Gaeng Som, a boldly spicy and tangy soup, elegantly presented. The interplay of mousse evokes thoughts of French duck liver pate, a delightful twist.
While the symphony orchestrates on multiple bold notes, a yearning surfaces for a more pronounced Southern Thai spices and kick, an emblem of the region’s culinary identity. The dishes, although often harmonious, occasionally miss the fiery punch characteristic of Southern Thai cuisine.
The Ambiance
The restaurant itself is a canvas of beauty, adorned with wooden flooring and warm hues. With limited indoor seating – just four tables – supplemented by a few on the front balcony, the ambiance retains an intimate and exclusive aura. The dining area exudes a subtle Chinese allure, an understated elegance that complements the culinary journey. The choice of music, leaning toward mellower jazz tones akin to waiting room or elevator music, could benefit from a livelier infusion, aligning with the vibrant flavors.
The Chivitr Wellness Resort
Before indulging in Samut’s culinary journey, take a moment to explore the remarkable Chivitr Wellness Resort. Designed with the aesthetics of an ancient Chinese village, radiates a timeless allure. Wander through its corridors and capture the essence of an era long past, a treat for photography enthusiasts and Instagram devotees alike.
The Culinary Exploration
The curtain rises with an engaging quartet of “mise en bouche” – the ethereal “Nasi Dagang”, an exquisite modern reinterpretation of Southern Thai Toasted Rice Salad known as “Khao Yum”, the daring “Hi Krang”, and the delightful “Goong Chae Bauy.”
As the culinary journey continued, each bites wove a narrative – from the rich notes of “Gaeng Som” mousse served with its homemade roti, to the enigmatic allure of “Pla Duke Talay,” the timeless essence of “Pla Moong,” and the enthralling “Goong Lai Seur” Phuket Dim Sum.
A symphony of flavors unfolds next, showcasing the iconic “Curry Crab” infused with kaffir lime oil, the sublime “Pla Tao Toey,” and the majestic “Goong Mang Korn” Phuket lobster. The spectacular preparation of “Pla Muek” adds a touch of flair to the journey.
The main courses reveal a profound connection to the heart of Southern Thai cuisine. “Poo Maa” ignited a fire that danced across my taste buds. The symphony of flavors transcended mere ingredients, offering a visceral connection to the land, the sea, and the soul of the region.”Seasonal Line Caught Fish” embraced me in a medley of nuanced flavors. “Hoi Chak Teen” resonated with every bite. Accompanied by fragrant “Khao Op Mor Din”, a Phuket seafood claypot rice, wove a tale of traditions passed down through generations.
Before indulging in dessert, a palate cleanser resembling a splendid nudibranch makes its appearance – Lime sorbet with soy and sriracha sauce, offering a unique and delightful interlude that left me yearning for more. Another spoonful would have been warmly welcomed.
For the grand finale, two exquisite desserts await: Tubo – a traditional Phuketian confection crafted from sweet potato and pumpkin, and Cacao Chumphon, a paradise for chocolate enthusiasts.
The closing notes of this oceanic symphony were penned with lemongrass tea and mignardises, a gentle serenade that lingered on my palate and in my heart.
What Makes Samut a Must-Visit Destination?
In conclusion, Samut is not merely a restaurant; it’s a harmonious blend of culinary artistry and refined elegance. With Chef Banky Jazz at the helm,the establishment has gracefully carved a niche within Phuket’s culinary panorama, presenting a gastronomic journey that enthralls and gratifies. Samut invites those in search of an authentic and tasteful culinary escapade to savor the elegance of the ocean, meticulously plated to perfection.
Getting there
Samut – สมุทร
14 120, Rawai, Mueang Phuket District, Phuket 83100
Google Maps: https://goo.gl/maps/maKFDMTqYQSZLgVB8
Opening hours: Monday to Friday 17:00 – 23:00, Saturday & Sunday 11:30 – 15:00 ; 17:00 – 23:00, closed on Tuesday
For bookings: tablecheck.com
Price: THB 3,590++ per person (or USD100 or EUR95)
Reservations in advance are highly recommended to secure your coveted spot
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