A Day Wandering and Eating Through Phuket Town
The morning sun had just begun to stretch across the pastel rooftops of Phuket Old Town, casting a soft, golden glow that made the Sino-European shophouses look even dreamier. I slipped into a quiet rhythm with the city — no agenda, no hurry — just the promise of a day dedicated to wandering, tasting, and letting Phuket reveal herself, one delicious bite at a time.
First stop: Roti Taew Nam on Yaowarat Road. The sizzle of dough hitting the hot pan greeted me before the shop even came into view. Locals sat perched on tiny stools, tearing flaky roti into pieces, dipping them into thick, spiced curry. I ordered mine the traditional way — one plain, one with egg — and a glass of strong Thai milk tea so sweet it could have passed for dessert. Outside, scooters zipped by, but inside the little roti shop, time moved slower, the way it does when you’re exactly where you’re meant to be.
Fueled by carbs and caffeine, I wandered into the heart of Old Town. Phuket Town isn’t shy with its colors: mint green mansions, sunflower yellow cafés, blush pink walls edged with European cornices. Along Thalang Road and down the quieter sois, I found hidden treasures — a cart steaming with Dim Sum, another frying crispy kanom krok (coconut-rice pancakes) so fragrant I stopped mid-step.
There were no grand signs, no polished menus. Just little smiles from the vendors, a nod to the food simmering between us.
The rule here is simple: If it smells incredible, it probably is.
Phuket Town isn’t just a photo op of colorful Sino-European shophouses — it’s a living, breathing feast of flavors. Step beyond the Instagram shots and join us on a delicious 1-day food tour, where every bite tells a story.
By midday, the heat pressed down like a heavy blanket, and I found sanctuary in a local favorite: Mee Ton Poe, just beside the iconic clock tower. Inside, the clatter of chopsticks and low murmur of conversation wrapped around me as bowls of Hokkien noodles floated from the kitchen to waiting tables. Thick yellow noodles tangled with shrimp, pork slices, and greens in a rich broth — a dish stitched into the very fabric of Phuket’s identity.
After lunch, the town seemed to exhale — and so did I. I let my pace slow, meandering through narrow sois laced with the scent of incense, overripe durian, and sun-warmed stone. Around each corner, a new story waited.
I ducked into the Thai Hua Museum, not just for the air-conditioning (though let’s be honest, that helped), but for a glimpse into Phuket’s past. Inside, history didn’t shout — it whispered. Through faded photographs and quiet displays, I followed the journey of Chinese immigrants who came with dreams of tin and trade, and stayed to shape the island’s identity with language, architecture, and recipes still shared at family tables today.
By now, the sun was getting serious. The kind of heat that calls for a local solution. So I followed the locals into Torry’s Ice Cream or Prem Dessert Bar, both tucked into charming, old-world shopfronts so pretty they felt like movie sets. I ordered a bowl of o-aew — a Phuket classic that defies easy explanation. Think shaved ice meets jelly meets fruit salad, and syrupy touches that seem odd until the first spoonful.
It was sweet, it was strange, it was exactly what the afternoon needed.
Back outside, the light had softened, casting long shadows on Soi Rommanee, once Phuket’s red-light district, now a photogenic stretch of pastel-hued shophouses and hidden cafés. I slipped into Bookhemian, where books line the walls and creativity lingers in the air, or sometimes into Campus Coffee Roaster, where the iced lattes are strong enough to bring you back to life. I paired mine with a butterfly pea cake, light and floral, because balance — caffeine and sugar — is everything.
As the golden light began to fade, so did the pace of the town — but the energy only shifted, not slowed. Before retreating to your hotel, make one final, flavorful stop at One Chun Café & Restaurant, one of Phuket Town’s most beloved institutions. Celebrated by the Michelin Guide year after year, One Chun serves up bold, soulful dishes that taste like history.
Start with Moo Hong, a slow-braised pork belly stew fragrant with Chinese spices, and don’t miss the yellow crab curry, ladled over delicate kanom jeen rice noodles. The stir-fried sataw (stink beans, but don’t let the name fool you) with prawns in spicy red curry packs a satisfying punch, and the simple pleasure of pak mieng leaves stir-fried with egg is a local comfort. Of course, a mound of steamed jasmine rice ties it all together.
If it’s Sunday, the night is far from over.
Step back onto Thalang Road, now transformed into the Sunday Walking Street Market, or Lard Yai. Lanterns sway overhead, casting a warm glow on the crowd below, where sizzling satay skewers perfume the air. I grabbed a few, along with a freshly rolled popiah — soft, warm, and bursting with crunchy vegetables and sweet-spicy sauce. A little deeper into the crowd, I found two street food stars worth every bite: a fiery, flawless Pad Krapow Gai that might just be Phuket’s best, and juicy handmade dumplings from the ever-popular King Dumplings stall.
To close out the day, follow the sound of live music into one of the town’s bars. If you love smooth saxophones and soul, grab a seat at Bebop, known for its intimate jazz and blues nights. Or, if you’re lucky enough to find a spot, tuck into a table at Anfield Bar, where good tunes and good vibes stretch late into the evening.
As the night deepens, Phuket Town lets its guard down. The polished facades melt into warm, familiar smiles; the sharp heat of the day gives way to a soft, balmy breeze. With music drifting from open windows and the last satay skewer in hand, it’s easy to understand why this place feels less like a destination and more like a memory in the making.
Phuket Town isn’t something you check off a list.
It’s something you taste, hear, wander through — and, if you’re lucky, take a little piece of with you when you go.
Quick Practical Tips
- Timing: Go early for breakfast and stay into the night if it’s Sunday!
- Footwear: Comfortable walking shoes (trust us).
- Money: Bring cash for smaller vendors.
- Pace yourself: Phuket Town rewards the slow and the curious.
Bring your appetite, and leave the map behind!
Because in Phuket Town, the best plan… is to have none at all.
Discover more from Spoon And Wander
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
krgdvl