Dinner Review – March 6th
There’s nothing like good company and a memorable meal to chase away the Sunday-night blues. Last weekend, I was lucky enough to enjoy both at Andaman Grill, the newly revamped beachfront steakhouse restaurant at JW Marriott Phuket. I was joined by my friend and a fellow food enthusiast, Amy that you may know as she is the moderator of the Phuket Foodies page on Facebook and a travel writer for Lonely Planet and many other magazines.
THE FOOD
The space has been completely refurbished, and there’s a shiny new bar where Khun Lee, the bartender, whips up some seriously balanced cocktails. Trust me, I’ll be back just for those. The kitchen is now led by Chef de Cuisine Kamil Kuczynski, who brings over a decade of international experience—from The Savoy in London to Burj Al Arab in Dubai. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to meet him this time, but his influence was clear in the thoughtful, globally inspired dishes.
We went for the five-course set menu (3,588 THB per person)
Smoked Andaman Beef Tartare
The evening kicked off with a dramatic smoked beef tartare, complete with oyster mayo, pickled mushrooms and egg yolk. Sadly, the wind stole our chance to snap a pic of the smoke—it vanished faster than the tartare itself. And speaking of the tartare… it was underseasoned. I found myself reaching for salt and pepper, which is something I rarely do at a restaurant. It just needed more oomph with more acidity, more flavor. Not a great start.
Oven-Baked Hokkaido Scallop
Next up, I had the oven-baked Hokkaido scallop, while my friend opted for the duck salad (shellfish allergies, ugh). The scallops were fresh and perfectly cooked, but again, something was missing. Maybe it’s because we’re spoiled by Phuket’s bold, in-your-face flavors, but this dish just didn’t wow us.
Pacific Black Cod
Now, this was the star of the show. The black cod, served with warm tartare sauce, leeks, and sweet peas, was like a fancy, healthier version of fish and chips. The sauce was rich but well-seasoned, and the capers added that perfect tang. My only complaint? The fish was a tiny bit overcooked, and there was a bit too much sauce. But honestly, I’m just being picky—this dish was a winner.
Rangers Valley Wagyu Tenderloin
The main event was a juicy cut of Rangers Valley Wagyu tenderloin, cooked in the Josper grill. The chef recommended medium-rare, and I’m glad I listened. The meat was tender, the crust was delicious, and the mash and pickled onions were the perfect sides.
75% Dark Chocolate Crème Brûlée
By this point, we were stuffed, but chocolate is always worth the extra bite. This dessert was more like an entremet than a classic crème brûlée, with layers of dark chocolate, chili cocoa tuile and lychee gel. It was rich, decadent and utterly delicious—though the portion was huge. We could’ve easily shared one.
THE DRINKS
The cocktail menu is just as impressive as the food. My favorites:
- The Prime Reserve (Maker’s Mark bourbon, Phang Nga honey, chocolate bitters, orange peel oil)
- Fireline Tide (mezcal, sweet vermouth, smoked cherry bitters, Fireline amaro)
- Pineapple Basil Coast (Phraya rum, clarified pineapple, Thai basil nectar, kaffir lime foam)
We also enjoyed a glass of 2021 Barbera d’Asti (498 THB/glass, 2,488 THB/bottle), which paired perfectly with the meal.
WHY YOU SHOULD GO AND RETURN
Andaman Grill’s setting is unbeatable, and the service—especially from our lovely waitress Ammy—was top-notch. While not every dish hit the mark, the black cod and Wagyu were standouts and the cocktails alone are worth a visit. I’ll be back soon for the upcoming bar takeover by one of Hong Kong’s 50 Best Bars, and to try the Andaman sole meuniere.
HOW TO GET THERE AND BOOK
Andaman Grill at JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa
Mai Khao, Phuket
Google Maps & Direction
For bookings, contact diningexperience@marriott.com or +66076338000
Opens daily from 17:00 to 23:00
Parking available on site
Min spend: 1000 THB/person | 5-course set menu: 3,588THB/person
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