The other night, I finally ticked Laad Phuket off my must-visit list. It had been on my radar for a while, largely because of Chef Tan-Parkorn Kosiyapong, co-owner of Laad and a culinary visionary I’ve followed since his Ekkamian days. Back then, Ekkamian was a fine-dining restaurant/art gallery hybrid featuring a long communal table for an intimate chef’s table experience. Even then, Chef Tan championed local ingredients, sourcing directly from farmers and fishermen to ensure the freshest seasonal produce.
Since those early days, Chef Tan has reached new heights. His Bangkok restaurant, GOAT, recently earned a Michelin star—a well-deserved recognition for his innovative approach. It was a nostalgic delight to see his evolution reflected in Laad, albeit he didn’t quite recognize me (but I definitely remember him!).
Laad is a collaboration between Chef Tan and Chef Steve, another familiar face from my Bangkok days. Steve helmed a beloved expat-favorite restaurant, Quince. I also have fond memories of the sausages (especially the kielbasa) he made during COVID lockdowns, which I eagerly bought to cook at home.
I dined with Samantha, aka the “Foodie Queen” of Thailand. She’s the co-owner of Vivin, a Bangkok grocerant known for spotlighting locally made cheese and championing the #GoLocal movement. Samantha also runs the Bangkok Foodies, Phuket Foodies, and Chiang Mai Foodies Facebook groups, serving as a trusted food community leader. On top of all that, she’s a PR and F&B consultant extraordinaire. Needless to say, dining with her is always an adventure.
The Food
Laad Phuket isn’t your typical southern Thai dining experience. The menu is a bold reinterpretation of local flavors, fusing the chefs’ unique styles and influences. Many dishes balance the sweetness and saltiness inherent to Thai cuisine, though some leaned a bit too intense for my palate—intentionally so, as the chefs aim to push boundaries and showcase their creativity.
Here are the highlights of our meal:
Raw Prawns with Pineapple Fish Sauce Dressing (THB 360)
กุ้งแช่น้ำปลา สับปะรด คางกุ้งหอด
A refreshing combination of raw prawns, pineapple-infused fish sauce, pickled garlic, and fresh herbs like basil and mint. Served in a Phuket pineapple, this dish is vibrant and reminiscent of ceviche—a must-try for seafood lovers.
Scallops with Coconut Cream and Crispy Rice Sheet (THB 340)
หลน หอยเชลล์ กับแป้งข้าวจ้าว
This dish features tender scallops, lightly charred on the outside and perfectly raw inside—Chef Tan’s signature technique perfected over the years. His light cooking ensures the scallops remain sweet, plump, and full of their natural juices. Paired with creamy coconut, a touch of chili, and crispy rice sheets, it’s a comforting yet sophisticated blend of rich Thai flavors with a modern twist. The coconut cream curry, originally from Chef Tan’s Ekkamian menu, has been refined to perfection. Sweet, delicate, and absolutely yummy—this is a dish I’d return for again and again!
Special dish of the day, a wagyu tartare larb served on crispy rice toast. It was another example of Laad’s bold approach to combining flavors and textures. The tartare itself was rich and generously seasoned, though it leaned too salty for my taste. The herbs on top were a standout, adding a fresh, herbaceous note that helped balance the dish. The crispy rice toast, while an interesting twist, felt slightly oversized, making the overall bite feel a bit unbalanced.
Southern-Style BBQ Pork Ribs (THB 440)
ซี่โครงหมูฮ้อง / ของตอง / มะนาว
Moo Hong is reimagined with American BBQ influences, featuring fall-off-the-bone pork ribs elevated by pickled shallots and lime wedges. A crowd-pleaser that pays homage to Phuket’s Chinese-inspired flavors while offering a hearty, soulful vibe.
Spicy Crab Curry with Betel Leaves (THB 590)
แทงปูใบชะพลู
This dish offers a bold take on traditional southern Thai crab curry, making it richer and thicker than the usual watery version. Served with betel leaves and chili oil, it’s a satisfying and flavorful twist on a local classic. However, I found the curry a bit too creamy and rich, with the crab being somewhat overshadowed by the powerful flavors of the curry. The crab took a backseat, with the curry really taking the spotlight. I also missed the addition of vermicelli noodles (khanom jeen), which would have added a sour note to balance out the richness, instead of serving it with rice.
Southern Sour and Spicy Soup (THB 340)
แกงส้มปลาย่าง กับ อันแขก และ หน่อไม้ดอง กับ สับปะรด
This sour and spicy soup features grilled fish, pineapple, and pickled bamboo shoots. Its tangy, vibrant flavor captures the essence of southern Thailand in every spoonful.
At Laad, rice is served complimentary, much like bread in a Western restaurant. You can choose between jasmine rice or rice berry to accompany your meal.
No meal is complete without dessert, and Laad didn’t disappoint. While both desserts leaned on the sweeter side, they were indulgent and memorable—a perfect way to round off the bold flavors of the main courses.
Fried Mangosteen Pie with Hibiscus Honey Icing (THB 280)
พายมังคุดกรอบ / กระเจี๊ยบ / น้าดังป่า
This warm, fried mangosteen pie stole the show. Despite its intense sweetness, it was incredibly comforting and satisfying. The tangy hibiscus honey icing added a floral note that balanced the richness beautifully. A definite must-try for anyone visiting Laad.
Mango Granite with Coconut Cream and Puffed Rice (THB 260)
มะม่วงหิมะ ครีมมะพร้าว ข้าวพอง
This dessert was a refreshing contrast, featuring icy mango granite paired with creamy coconut and the delightful crunch of puffed rice. It offered a lighter, tropical finish to the meal.
Despite small critiques, the creativity and effort behind each dish were evident, and it’s always exciting to see chefs push boundaries with a familiar dish like larb or moo hong. If you’re feeling adventurous, this is worth a try.
Drinks
The cocktails at Laad deserve a special mention. I tried Kayak Toast (THB 380) made with sato (Thai rice wine), lime juice, rum and a pinch of salt. for my second drink, I opted for the mezcal margarita (thb 350). Both drinks were expertly crafted and complemented the bold flavors of the dishes.
Final Thoughts
Laad Phuket is a celebration of southern Thai cuisine with a contemporary and American flair. Chef Tan and Chef Steve have created a space where traditional flavors meet bold reinterpretation. It’s an exciting addition to Phuket’s dining scene, especially for those who appreciate creativity and innovation in the kitchen.
For anyone craving an adventurous culinary experience in Phuket, Laad is worth a visit. Just prepare your taste buds for the unapologetically bold flavors that define this unique dining destination.
How to get there?
Laad Phuket หลาด ภูเก็ต
Wana Park I 177/34 หมู่4 Srisoonthorn Rd, Si Sunthon, Thalang District, Phuket 83110 (click here for direction)
Opens from Monday to Friday from 5.00 PM to 10.00 PM and Saturday & Sunday from 11.00 AM to 03.00 PM and 05.00 PM to 10.00 PM – closed on Wednesday
Phone: 0936699910
Website: https://www.laadphuket.com/
