There’s no better way to close the month than with a decadent brunch—and last Sunday, I had the pleasure of doing just that at Wagyu Steakhouse in Surin, Phuket. Nestled discreetly among the villas and boutique resorts of this elegant seaside neighborhood, this fine restaurant doesn’t rely on flashy signage or viral marketing. It simply doesn’t need to. Its reputation has spread quietly but confidently through word of mouth—among Phuket’s loyal foodies, industry insiders, and those seeking out unique, intimate experiences.
I was fortunate enough to secure a seat for the latest edition of their exclusive brunch series, which felt more like an invitation to a private club than a public event. What followed was an afternoon of sunlit dining, exceptional wines, and courses that reflected both precision and passion.
Chef Tammasak “Noi” Chootong, the award-winning chef behind the renowned Suay restaurants, is the mastermind behind this brunch. For this series, he steps away from the conventional buffet, delivering a curated multi-course degustation paired with fine wines, crafted cocktails, and impeccable service.
The Decor & Ambiance
Wagyu Steakhouse doesn’t immediately declare its sophistication from the main road leading from Surin Beach to Cherngtalay. But once you pass its understated façade, the ambiance shifts dramatically. A valet greets you with practiced ease, and a warm, wordless welcome guides you inside. As I took in the interiors and snapped a few photos, a perfectly chilled glass of Prosecco appeared at my table—crisp, effervescent, and just the right start to the experience.
The interiors are thoughtfully designed, blending traditional Thai elements with cosmopolitan flair. From intricately carved wooden panels inspired by Thai textile blocks to the handwoven ceiling installation above the bar, the space exudes a sense of craftsmanship and artistry. Descend into the main dining room, where floor-to-ceiling glass and a vertical garden wall filter soft light across the tables, creating an atmosphere of deliberate grace.
The Brunch Experience
Priced at THB 5,000++ per guest, this brunch is a carefully orchestrated experience—a far cry from the chaotic buffets of lesser establishments. With free-flowing sparkling wine, craft cocktails, and a half-bottle of premium wine per person, each course unfolds at a leisurely pace, with service that feels both generous and anticipatory. The menu rotates monthly, offering a fresh expression of Chef Noi’s seasonal inspirations.
Amuse & Appetizers
The brunch opened with a bite-sized blini topped with Oscietra caviar and a kiss of mignonette. Light, briny, and elegant, it was the perfect amuse-bouche to set the tone. This was followed by Gillardeau oysters—served with minimal fuss, highlighting their pure freshness. A truffle beef tartare, dressed in earthy truffle mayonnaise and served with crisp sourdough, came next, along with an elevated Caesar salad featuring poached Taraba king crab, baby cos, artichoke, crispy pancetta, and a velvety Caesar dressing. Each dish was plated with finesse, each bite thoughtful and meticulously prepared.
First Course: Cool, Clean, and Complex
The Iced White Asparagus Soup was a standout, poured over a bed of langoustine tartare and finished with another layer of Oscietra caviar. Clean, creamy, and served at the perfect temperature, it was a dish that could easily grace any Michelin-starred tasting menu
Second Course: Earth Meets Sea
Next came a delicate baked Cod Fillet, brushed with turmeric beurre blanc, its richness balanced by a crisp apple-fennel salad, honey-roasted sweet potato, and salmon roe. While the cod was tender, a burst of citrus could have enhanced the dish. Accompanying it was a family-style pumpkin risotto, topped with grilled sea scallops, black truffle, and roasted pumpkin seeds. While the risotto leaned a touch underdone and the scallops slightly overcooked, the flavor profile was deep, nutty, and comforting.
A raspberry sorbet with vodka followed—sharp, tart, and playfully refreshing—serving as a vibrant interlude before the final savory course.
The Main Event: Surf & Turf
For the final course, arrived with a Charcoal-Grilled Darling Downs Tenderloin, paired with a lobster spring roll and silky hollandaise. The beef, cooked just past medium, was tender and full of flavor. While the spring roll was crisp and generous, it overshadowed the delicate lobster inside—a rare misstep in an otherwise balanced menu.
The Finale: Sweet Endings
Dessert arrived as a duo—a warm Burnt Butter Brioche with salted caramel ice cream and cashew nut brittle, and a Curated Selection of Cheese and Chocolate. The brioche, indulgently soft and sweet, was complemented by the deep saltiness of the caramel and the crunch of nut candy.
Although the cheese selection was thoughtful, it felt more like an afterthought than a key part of the meal. A more luxurious touch—perhaps a roving cheese cart before dessert—would have allowed the cheeses to shine as they deserved.
Drinks Worth Remembering
A special mention must be made of the Toma-tini, a tomato-based cocktail that was as refreshing as it was intriguing. The wine pairing—generous and well-paced—matched the meal in both body and elegance.
Final Thoughts
Wagyu Steakhouse’s monthly brunch offers a rare experience in Phuket—one that’s elegant without being pretentious. Despite a couple of minor hiccups in execution, the overall experience was indulgent, refined, and unforgettable. If you’re planning to attend, dress the part, arrive hungry, and book your table early. This is one brunch that’s in high demand—and for good reason.
Getting there
Wagyu Steakhouse
106/46 Moo 3, Cherngtalay, Phuket 83110
View on Google Maps
wagyuphuket.com
094 480 0882
Brunch: Every Last Sunday of the Month
Reserve Here
