In June 2020, amidst the pandemic, I embarked on my third staycation at the exquisite Amdaeng Bangkok Riverside Boutique Hotel. Drawn to its unique architecture and captivating design, as a blogger with an eye for aesthetics, I longed for an extraordinary experience. This review recounts my personal journey during this staycation.
The context
After months of working from the confines of my home, I yearned for a change of atmosphere beyond the monotonous four walls. Despite my efforts to spruce up my living space, the constant confinement began to take a toll on my sanity. I knew I needed a change of scenery, and a staycation along the picturesque Bangkok Riverside seemed like the perfect opportunity to satiate my wanderlust and rejuvenate my spirits.
Having previously enjoyed a delightful stay at The Athenee Hotel and a blissful retreat in Ayutthaya, I sought a tranquil escape from the city’s hustle and bustle. I was determined to find a boutique hotel nestled along the banks of the Chao Phraya River, offering a true vacation experience. After hearing about the romantic ambiance and distinctive decor of Amdaeng Riverside, my decision was made. I swiftly made my reservation, opting for the Grand Deluxe River View room.
The Fascinating History
Amdaeng Riverside Bangkok Hotel, opened just two years prior in 2018, had already garnered a reputation for its remarkable design, earning it a place in various magazines as a favored destination for romantic getaways. The founders, Lek and Min, dreamed of a riverfront residence during their search, ultimately discovering a plot of land adjacent to the beautifully renovated Lhong 1919, a historical Chinese heritage landmark. The hotel’s allure was further heightened by its secluded location on the riverbank, paying homage to the original landowner, Amdaeng Klee, from the Rama V era. Today, the term “Amdaeng” has largely fallen into disuse, but back then, it was reserved exclusively for unmarried women.
The Attention to Detail
Every element at Amdaeng Riverside has been thoughtfully curated to evoke a sense of nostalgia and seamlessly blend the past with the present. The modern architectural design of the building, adorned in a striking scarlet red hue, beautifully complements the Thai word “daeng,” meaning “red.” This choice of color pays homage to the favored lip color of Thai women in the 19th century. Drawing inspiration from the Victorian era, the hotel effortlessly combines Western influences with Thai design, incorporating intricate gingerbread embellishments and vintage European furniture
Setting the Scene
Situated on the Thonburi side of Bangkok, adjacent to Lhong 1919, Amdaeng Riverside is easily accessible, offering a serene retreat just a 10-minute motorbike ride away from the Old City. Nestled in a small alley facing the river, the hotel’s scarlet red facade immediately captivates visitors, contrasting beautifully with the surrounding lush greenery. However, I must admit that my initial excitement waned as I approached the hotel and noticed the pool area’s lack of cleanliness and maintenance. It was disheartening to witness, as the pool serves as guests’ first impression upon entering the premises.
The Lobby
As I stepped into the lobby, my earlier excitement continued to dwindle. The reception and lobby area did not exude the charm and appeal I had anticipated. The receptionist’s lack of warmth and friendliness immediately dampened my spirits. I sensed an unwelcoming chill permeating the lobby’s atmosphere. When I mentioned the pool’s less-than-pristine condition, the receptionist dismissively attributed it to the red tiles, which were actually painted, and expressed irritation at my early arrival. I had no intention of checking in at that moment; I merely wished to drop off my bag before exploring the area. My plan included a visit to the Grand Palace during this quiet period and breakfast at a nearby coffee shop called Blue Whale Cafe.
After leaving my luggage with the receptionist, I inquired about the boat service to cross the river. His explanation was vague, instructing me to head to Lhong 1919 to catch the hop-on-hop-off boat without mentioning that the service was unavailable at that time of the day. Arriving at Lhong 1919, I discovered a closed desk and no access to the pier. Regrettably, my stay at the hotel began on a less-than-ideal note, courtesy of an unengaged receptionist.
The Room
Returning to the hotel in the afternoon, around 3-4 pm, after a day of exploring the old town, I eagerly anticipated relaxing by the pool and in my bedroom. Although check-in time had already passed, I was informed that my room was not yet ready. While I waited, the staff directed me to the terrace, offering a welcome drink. However, the drink’s excessive sweetness, a common trait in Thai hotels, left much to be desired in terms of taste and color.
After a brief 5 to 10-minute wait, a staff member handed me the room key and accompanied me to my accommodation. Although it wasn’t the specific room I had initially requested, I found it well-appointed and clean, with a stunning view of the Chao Phraya River. Each of the ten rooms boasted a distinct personal touch, characterized by unique wall and furniture colors. I would advise potential guests to inquire about the available themes in advance and select one that aligns with their preferences.
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A Relaxing Bathing Experience
I had booked the Riverside Grand Deluxe with River View, which offered a spacious room. Upon entering, my attention was immediately drawn to the old wooden door reminiscent of traditional Peranakan houses in Phuket or Penang. The decor was heavily influenced by Chinese culture. The bed was positioned in the center of the room, with the bathroom to the right. One particularly striking feature was the vintage bathtub, inviting guests to indulge in a blissful and romantic soak. As I was staying alone, I eagerly anticipated a serene evening—a bottle of wine, a rejuvenating bath. However, I regretted not bringing bath salts or bubble bath to enhance the experience. Bathing, for me, is a sacred ritual.
Unfortunately, one design flaw interrupted the otherwise alluring and romantic ambiance—the view of the toilet bidet. I couldn’t fathom why it had been left exposed. It certainly posed an inconvenience for couples or friends sharing a room, and I couldn’t help but imagine the potential discomfort it might cause. The architects and designers should have given greater consideration to such details, ensuring that toilets remain discreetly hidden behind proper walls and doors.
The Pool
After settling into my room, taking a refreshing shower, and uncorking my bottle of wine, I was eager to unwind by the pool, book in hand. However, my excitement was short-lived as I discovered that the pool area was not clean, with lounge chairs marred by bird droppings. Disappointed, I approached the front desk, requesting both a towel and a clean-up of the area. The staff member seemed displeased with my inquiry, appearing as though I had asked for too much. While I understand that my standards can be exacting, cleanliness and a friendly, professional service are basic expectations in any hotel. After all, the room rate was not insignificant—I paid 4,000 THB per night. During these challenging times, hoteliers must strive for excellence to win over local guests, encouraging them to return and recommend the establishment to friends and colleagues.
The Rooftop Oasis
Although the rooftop bar was closed during my stay, guests were welcome to enjoy the space and bring their own drinks to savor the river view. However, similar to other public areas, the rooftop lacked proper maintenance and cleanliness.
Finding Delight in Unexpected Company
Despite the disappointments, I did manage to find some solace during my stay as I connected with other guests at the hotel. Like me, they expressed their disappointment with the hotel’s services and the subpar cleanliness and upkeep of the public areas. To celebrate her husband’s birthday, they kindly invited me to join them for a glass of champagne. Our shared grievances brought us together, creating a sense of camaraderie amidst our less-than-ideal experiences.
Breakfast Reflections
There isn’t much to say about the breakfast—it was a standard Western offering, as one might expect from most hotels. Perhaps opting for the Thai breakfast would have provided a more satisfactory culinary experience.
My Night's Rest
I must admit, the bed was exceptionally comfortable, ensuring a restful night’s sleep. However, my slumber was intermittently interrupted by the noise emanating from the river below. Throughout the night, the sound of barges traversing the river incessantly roused me from my sleep. Light sleepers, like myself, should remember to bring earplugs to counteract this disturbance.
Tips for Prospective Amdaeng Guests
Being highly Instagrammable is no longer sufficient for hotels today. They must elevate their game and regain travelers’ trust by prioritizing hygiene, cleanliness, and personalized service. This is especially crucial when competing against Airbnb apartments and villas.
One important detail to note is that while the rooms are impeccably clean, the same cannot be said for the public areas, including the pool, garden, and rooftop. With fewer guests checking in during recent months, the hotel staff should have had ample time to ensure these areas were spotless. Additionally, the service at Amdaeng fell disappointingly short, with the exception of the night receptionist/guard who offered a friendly and professional greeting upon my return from dinner. Personalized service is a key expectation when staying at a boutique hotel, but unfortunately, Amdaeng fell short in this regard. The receptionist appeared disinterested and unwelcoming, sporting a stained uniform that further detracted from the overall experience. When I informed him about the cloudy pool, he dismissively denied the issue, attributing it to the red tiles, which were actually painted. It wasn’t the first time I had encountered a red pool, and the material used is typically paint rather than tiles. I suspect that the hotel may have overlooked the proper painting and maintenance required for a swimming pool. The lounge chairs were also left unwashed, and the pool area’s surrounding floor appeared neglected for several days.
In terms of the room, the presence of the exposed toilet bidet detracted from the romantic ambiance that the hotel aimed to create. In my specific room, the toilet was separated from the shower area by a glass partition, directly visible from the main room. It was not possible to conceal it with a curtain either. Architects and designers should exercise caution when creating room layouts, ensuring that toilets are discreetly tucked away. No one wants to jeopardize their relationship due to a poorly placed toilet, and it can create discomfort even among friends.
Conclusion
In conclusion, my stay at Amdaeng Bangkok Riverside was a mixed bag of delights and disappointments. While the beautifully appointed rooms and captivating river view offered moments of enchantment, the hotel’s shortcomings in cleanliness and service dampened the overall experience. As travelers, we expect hotels to maintain high standards, particularly during these challenging times, to inspire confidence and foster a desire to return. While Amdaeng has undeniable potential, there is room for improvement in delivering an exceptional and memorable staycation experience.
Location
Amdaeng Bangkok Riverside Hotel – เลขที่ 12/1 หมู่ – หมู่บ้าน – ซอย เชียงใหม่ Chiang Mai Rd, Khlong San, Bangkok 10600 – Click here for the Google Maps
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