I recently had the pleasure of being invited, along with my food blogger friend Holly, to experience Chef Yannick Hollenstein’s latest project, Omemo. Located in Kathu, near Phumontra and as part of the hotel-villa VIBES OF NATURE, Omemo is a new fine-dining restaurant specializing in Swiss cuisine. Chef Yannick crafts a culinary journey that connects his Swiss mountain roots with the Andaman coast, sharing his memories and passion for the sea.
I have followed Chef Yannick’s career for years, beginning in Bangkok where he redefined the brunch experience by serving refined comfort food with a beautiful aesthetic. We relocated to Phuket the same week, where he took charge of L’Arome by the Sea, a French fine-dining establishment. His work there earned the restaurant a place in the Michelin guide and significantly elevated the level of service.
In his latest venture, Chef Yannick presents a more intentional, grounded and mature cuisine. His dishes are free of gimmicks; every ingredient serves a clear purpose. It is quite exceptional to dine where every single dish is equally divine, with absolutely no “fausse note” or merely “meh” moment. Every mouthful was simply spectacular.
THE DECOR
OMEMO offers an immediate sense of calm, like a welcome, deep breath. The setting is intentionally designed for slowing down: rounded windows frame the surrounding greenery, and the central, open kitchen operates with measured precision. This black stainless-steel counter serves as a hushed stage, despite the activity taking place.
Each table is deliberately oriented toward the kitchen, offering guests an admiring view of the culinary “ballet.” Watching Chef Yannick and his team is an almost meditative experience and as an added bonus, the chef is very handsome. Tables are spaced thoughtfully, ensuring guests are not disturbed by neighboring conversations.
The ambiance focused on intimacy. Tables are dressed with midnight-blue cloths and a focused spot of light highlights the food, while the rest of the room is dimly lit, creating a flattering glow. Every detail, from the plates to a special Swiss knife, has been custom-designed for the restaurant. The room quietly insists that you lean in and pay attention.
THE FOOD
We experienced the full nine-sequence tasting menu, along with the optional shared dishes, meaning we sampled every single bite offered. Omemo offers set menu formulas and an à la carte selection. Every dish was a winner; I was utterly wowed by each forkful, making it impossible to single out a favourite. The wine pairing is a must-try and should not be missed.
The evening began with five exquisite petite bites. Designed to awaken the palate, these were characterized by clean flavours, crisp textures and the first subtle introduction to the Swiss culinary narrative. This opening was perfectly paired with a B. Martin brut reserve champagne.
Next, we were presented with Brittany scallops. A single, sweet and translucent scallop arrived with a warm, nutty drizzle of brown butter. The subtle earthiness of the well-prepared cauliflower offered a contrasting crunch, anchoring the dish. It was deeply aromatic, yet minimalist and restrained.
Then, we were served a selection of bread and charcuterie with butter, a seemingly unusual, yet grounding, start for a fine-dining experience. The selection included sourdough with a mature tang, a pretzel offering the comforting softness of Alpine bakeries and a unique fish charcuterie made from tuna. This coastal note was a clever detail, establishing a distinct bridge between Europe and the Andaman Sea.
For our next course, we shared the Andaman Yellowtail Kingfish. This was a refreshing dish featuring cucumber, green apple and an amazing green gazpacho, the vibrant color of which contrasted beautifully with the white flesh of the fish.
We also shared the Fire Grilled Norway Langoustine. Served nearly raw for maximum freshness and natural sweetness, the delicate langoustine contrasted thrillingly with a deeply savory bisque. This complex bisque featured earthy pumpkin, fiery ‘nduja, and bright preserved lemon. The masterful balance between the sweet langoustine and the rich, spicy-yet-citrusy bisque created a harmonious dish.
Next, we enjoyed the Confit Smoked Scottish Salmon, which was served with celeriac, speck and a lemon hollandaise. This was another unexpectedly harmonious and amazing dish. I hadn’t had celeriac in years and was genuinely delighted by it that evening. It was velvety, creamy, light and offered a subtle nutty-sweetness, much more delicate than celery. A lovely touch was making the hollandaise with a hint of wasabi. The speck added a welcome layer of umami and smoke, perfectly balancing the dish.
For the main course, we sampled both, though typically guests are asked to choose one. Our first main was the Free Range Chicken Roulade, accompanied by roasted maitake, sunchoke, and a truffle velouté. The dish was beautifully balanced; the truffle was subtle and did not overpower the other flavors. The earthy mushrooms and the sunchoke—which offered a nutty, sweet flavor reminiscent of an artichoke heart—made the plate feel like a perfect ode to autumn. The chicken, cooked sous-vide, was perfectly complemented by these elements.
The Australian Angus Tenderloin, cooked to the chef’s recommended medium-rare, was incredibly tender—like cutting through butter. It was served with Swiss pepper polenta, braised carrot, and a deep, almost black, reduced red wine jus. The quality of the meat was excellent, and the accompaniments complemented the beef perfectly without overpowering it.
Our meal concluded with a refreshing palate cleanser: a kiwi and celery granite topped with yogurt.
For the grand finale, we savored the Coconut & Caviar dessert. Served inside a coconut shell with pineapple, banana, and miso, and accompanied by a crispy coconut pancake, this dessert was truly superb. The caviar was not a gimmick but an intentional element that elevated the dish with its umami flavor. The dessert, which was not overly sweet, felt well-executed and deliberately crafted a complexity. A nacre spoon was provided for this excellent creation.
To formally end the evening, we enjoyed a cup of Monsoon tea and a “Süessi Häppli” (mignardises). The chocolate bonbons, in particular, were surprisingly good and not too heavy.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Omemo showcases Chef Hollenstein’s evolution and mastery. The cuisine is marked by intellectual integrity, technical precision and a genuine respect for flavor augmented by the secret ingredients of passion and love. Dining here is an intimate, beautiful and deeply satisfying occasion. Omemo doesn’t just earn a recommendation; it establishes a new benchmark for dining excellence in Phuket. This restaurant is truly exceptional and well worth the visit.
HOW TO GET THERE
OMEMO Exclusive Swiss Dining
Vichitsongkram Rd, Kathu, Kathu District, Phuket 83120
Booking in advance required
For bookings: click here or 061 272 3366
Opens from Tues to Sun from 6pm to 11pm
Parking secured available
Price: 5 Sequences THB3,890++ (USD 120/EUR 105) or 9 Sequences THB4,890++ (USD 150/EUR 130)
Discover more from Spoon And Wander
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
